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Mechanarchy, Artificing Stylish and Unique Bicycle Rear Pannier Racks
Mechanarchy's Rear Bicycle Pannier Racks are made 100% from Re-'Cycled' materials. Literally! Our racks, are made from old bicycle frames and spokes, to suit 28", 700 C, 27", 26", 24", 20" or even smaller if your toddler wants some stylish panniers too!

The pannier hanger system installed on this rack came from Ron D Swan, but we can manufacture and fit any hanger system of your choice, just supply us with the dimensions, and we'll do the rest.

Or, if you'd prefer, just follow our step by step 'artifice your own rear pannier rack' instructions, and you'll have a pannier rack at a fraction of the cost you'd pay in the stores. All we ask is that you let people know where you came across the idea and, if you wish, and can afford to, please donate a small amount to Mechanarchy so that we can keep the new ideas coming. After all, 'Equity can only come about in our Society through Shared, freely available Knowledge and Creativity'

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Step By Step Instructions - Build Your Own Bicycle Rack
First step is to find a frame that's a similar size to the bike we want our rack to fit. In this case I'm making a Rack to fit a 26" Mountain Bike, with a large frame. I don't have the exact size in my scrap bikes area, so I've grabbed the closest I can find.

We need to cut this frame where the Seat Post joins the Bottom Bracket, where the Top Tube joins the Seat Tube, and also at the Rear Dropouts. In the picture to the right, I've already cut the frame at these points, but placed them back together to highlight the frame part we need. The cuts can be made with an angle grinder cutting disc and take less than a few minutes to do. You should end up with a piece of frame for your rack, that looks like the picture below. (Important, don't throw out the other piece of frame. It will come in use elsewhere!)

You can see in this picture, that the Rear Dropouts have been completely removed. All we need are the 'Lug' sections. Once everything has been cut, we need to tidy up all the edges, remove burr's from inside and outside of the tubes, grind off the small piece of top tube weld and check the width of the Dropouts to make sure that they will fit over the frame of our Mountain Bike. We are looking to fit the rack on the 'outside' of the Bike frame and to attach it to the top Lugs as in the photo below.
Depending on the Bike, this can take a bit of work. We may need to 'spread' the Rear Dropouts of the Rack to get them to fit over the bike frame. This is easily done (as long as you are gentle) by simply pulling them slowly apart with your hands.

We then fit the rack over the top Lugs on the bike frame and put a bolt through to check if it aligns. The holes in the rack Lugs may need to be drilled out if they have threads in them, otherwise screwing through them and into the bike Lug threads will cause your bolt to lock up, with the result that the rack will not tighten against the bike frame.

I've skipped a couple of steps here, but you'll get the jist. Because the Top Bar of the rack will not be long enough to reach the seat post of the bike, we need to measure and cut another piece of scrap bike tube and push it into the rack. 50 mm inside will be fine. We then drill this area and bolt it.

On the other end, we can attach some standard rack brackets to the seat post tightening bolt, mark our rack and drill it for the connecting bolt or simply weld the brackets to the rack tube. Or, if our rack is the exact same size as our bike frame, we can do the following.......

This is an earlier rack build on a 700C Bike. I used the other end of the top tube from my scrap frame (the headset end), removed the bearing cup, cut it down, slotted it into my rack and stuck the seat tube through it.

This holds nice and firm but can always be drilled with a self tapper put through into the seat tube. Not all bikes will take to this modification primarily because of seat tube angle differences, but if you can find a scrap frame with the right angle for your bikes seat tube, it saves an awful lot of fixing headaches.

Next, I place my rack into a special jig that I made so that I can find the precise center point of the rack tube to attach the pannier hangers to. This jig is not essential, but it helps. This rack is being fitted with a pair of Ron D Swan Panniers, which have their own unique hanger system.

The jig enables me to 'mark' the center line of the rack tube in readiness for drilling. Because I want the hangers to sit in precisely the same spot on both sides, this center line is critical. By marking both sides, I can check that the hole on the other side of the tube is in the correct spot after I have drilled right through the tube from one side to the other.

You can see the four holes drilled in readiness for the hangers. These will be attached to the tube with fairly substantial pop rivets.

At this stage, I also drill the hole at the seat post attaching point.

All holes are de-burred, and the rack is now ready for some sandpaper and a clean up with either meths or thinners so that it can be painted.

All painted up and ready to get the hangers attached. At this point, I usually attach the rack to the bike as it makes the attachment of the hangers far easier and also ensures that the paintwork doesn't get scratched by being rolled around on a bench.

Make sure that when you bolt the Gear Set side of your rack to the bike, that the bolt doesn't go too far through the bike Lug, otherwise it will damage your chain and possibly your gear set.

The completed rack with hangers attached, seat post fixing in place and ready for the panniers.

The hole in the end of the rack (where the old seat post used to fit) can easily be turned into a reflector fixing point.

Simply get an old seat tube, cut off about 50 mm's, fit it in and clamp it with a bolt, put a plastic plug in the end and finally, fit the type of reflector you commonly see on seat tubes.

All finished apart from wrapping the elastic ties around the rack hangers and upright supports. Ron D Swan panniers come with elastic straps that thread through ready made eyelets. These straps easily wrap over the rack tube, go under the hanger brackets and thread through the other eylet on the other side of the pannier. Simple and effective way of making sure your panniers don't pop off whilst you are riding.
Next: How to attach a platform to your Mechanarchy Bicycle Rack